Arrival in Syktyvkar

Arrival in Syktyvkar
Total Chaos and Fun

At Starlight Diner

At Starlight Diner
After a long day

Friday, May 21, 2010

20-21 May 2010

The 20th was a long long day. As you may recall we checked out of our hotel around 9 AM in the morning and then hiked and metro’d all over St. Petersburg. We did not, sadly, get to shower or anything like that before we got on the train at 10:01 PM. Folks were tired, sweaty and just plan ugly. The bathrooms on the train leave a great deal to be desired and the cleanliness by U. S. standards, is, well, somewhat below expectations. There will be no time between arrival in Moscow and transfer to the airport to shower—so our troop will fly 10 hours to Washington, then on to Portland on top of all of this without showering. They will be understandably tired, somewhat “fragrant” and likely hungry when they arrive home. It is hard to guess what the order will be of shower, food and sleep. You might hear them using phrases and words you do not understand—it is a lingering effect of spending two weeks in Russia—the words and phrases are Russian.

When your loved one comes home, you need to engage them in discussion about the entire trip and what they found funny, surprising, and different in their time in Russia. Please get them to share their impressions of Russia and go back to the photobucket site as I will add more photos and videos to it. Each individual has literally hundreds of photos and videos to share and with each one there is a story or sequence of events. It was funny to watch their reactions to different foods, to how people interact with one another in both formal and informal situations, and the general pace of society. At times I was amused when they wanted to experience Russia but simultaneously wanted it to be like the U. S. Bonds on trips like this can be incredibly strong—both among the travelers and with the families that they stayed with—it is always a great gesture to say thanks back to them.

The arrival in Moscow is at 5:30 AM (a rather rude awakening for all of us) and train arrived exactly on time—surprisingly the trains run very tight schedules—and given the distances involved, this is impressive. The bus ride to the airport was quiet as many were simply in a stupor from lack of sleep. We arrived at the airport around 7 AM and could not check in until approximately 9 AM. So we found a convenient spot on the floor and some collapsed in sleep and then others went seeking food and/or a shower (which you can do here) I always find this part of the trip melancholic, as folks are tired but realize that this is the end of the entire trip for them and the time that they have spent together as a group.

As promised, we showed them 4 Russias, the Russia of the 21st Century in the capital, Moscow, the Russia of the smaller community, Syktyvkar, with home stay, Ancient Russia in Yb and the romantic Russia of the Tsars in St. Petersburg. We were absolutely gifted with gorgeous (at times hot) weather and the sun shined every day and I think that lead to a great attitude on everyone’s part.

This country is huge and even though we have traveled by plane, boat, bus and train we have actually seen only a small part of the country. We had great presentations in Moscow, Syktyvkar and St. Petersburg and the students were alert and asked good questions of our presenters. The students also had an incredible opportunity to live and interact with Russians in their homes in the stay at Syktyvkar. I have travelled a great deal and have never had the opportunity to actually stay in a home in the host country that I was visiting. This was an open door for them to foster greater understanding of Americans and to develop deeper understandings of the Russia people.

The trip would not be possible without the extensive work of Andrei Strukov both before the trip and during the trip serving as constant interpreter for all in each and every situation. Having someone who is fluent in Russian (and in fact from Syktyvkar) is a blessing beyond price. I tip my hat to him and thank him for his service to the students and the University. His enduring patience with language issues and a dozen students simultaneously asking for help is simply remarkable.
We were also blessed with the company of Bill Halteman on this trip. Bill is a UM faculty member (in mathematics) whose Russian was exceptional and whose ability to help other students was greatly appreciated by Andrei (as it gave him a break) and by me.

As noted everyone but me leaves Moscow around Noon and I will see them off—it will be odd, after 13 days of being part of a group of individuals, I will be alone as they head home. It is about 1035 AM here (2:35 AM in Maine) and the last of them have gone through security. I cannot even check in until 3:30 PM for my flight at 7 PM. By the time I get to London the band of travelers will certainly have arrived at Washington (and perhaps even be on the plane to Portland). Only a few needed some upset stomach medicine (which might be related to personal sadness at the trip ending and not necessarily food related). Final last surprise, this airport has full body scanners in use for trips to rest of Europe and U. S.,

This is the final blog entry you will receive from this trip—enjoy the return of those you love and see if you can “experience” Russia through them.

John

Thursday, May 20, 2010

21 May 2010

All got up early this morning and packed out as we had to put luggage for 14 people in 1 room and leave hotel for our intellectual activities today. It was nice of the hotel to provide this room for us. We went with a friend of Andrei's to a health care products research firm. It was warm as 17 of us were packed into a single room for this event. The firm is trying to keep a low profile and has moved three times to avoid pressure from criminal elements. From there we went to the largest, oldest daily business newspaper in St. Petersburg (also was featured in the latest Iron Man 2 movie). We received a great deal of useful information on the small business climate in St. P and in Russia from a very informed and knowledgeable source. WE then went to lunch and went back for another boat trip through the canals of St. P.

Yesterday we had a canal trip, but it was in Russian and most could not follow what was being said and our interpreter was not allowed to speak--so our travel agency rebooked another tour just for us today and our guide/interpreter gave us a great tour. Folks are now enjoying their final hours in St. Petersburg as we leave tonite on an overnight train to Moscow and then to the airport for flight home. It is the last chunk of time for final gifts and sightseeing. In Moscow we part ways, I head to England to meet MBA group (and give an address) and rest of group head home to Maine.

Please watch for more photo and video posts as I need a faster and more reliable connection to do those.

19 May 2010

We found out that the softest toilet paper in Russia thus far was on the plane to Syktyvkar!! I know you enjoy all these small snippets of information. I also realize that some would like to see a blog every day--that is absolutely impossible here in Russia because internet and wifi connections are not widespread and reliable. Andrei and I got up early today to search for a wifi and found one in McDonalds and ordered some drinks only to find out the system was down. We do have old modem connection in hotel at 100 rubles an hour--but it took more than 2 hours to download CNN home page. It also can take anywhere from 10- 20 minutes to upload photos.

Today we went to the fortress of Peter and Paul and saw the church that holds all the remains of the Romanov Tsars (including Nicholas and Alexandria and Peter the Great). A small but impressive building, and if we had more time we could have hear from the Church Choir--but we needed to head to our timed entry to the Hermitage. Our guide tells us that if you spent 3 minutes at each item in the Hermitage it would take you more than 8 years to get through the museum. The have an impressive impressive art collection and other objects as well. We were running late because of the brutal traffic. We have been absolutely blessed with terrific sunny and cooler weather here and all the locals talk about how unusual this is for this weather.

WE went to a folklore show in the early evening and two of our members--Chris and Tyler ended up being part of the show and if I can get a more reliable connection I will add those videos of them (and other videos I have taken). It was a good night and all returned to hotel tired and safe from a loooooooong day in St. Petersburg.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

On the road again

18 May 2010

Up early and to airport by 7 AM. You are able to walk to airport from town (thing about that--how many places can you do that?). Students were surprised that weight limit internally to Russia was 50% of that internationally--so sadly a lot of excess weight payments. Lots of sadness leaving--I continually remain surprised at how quickly and deeply people form emotional ties with one another. A treat was to meet one of Andrei's english teachers--from his 7th grade and then again in the University.

Flight was 1 hour and 45 minutes and we were served drinks, food and drinks again--we do not see that anymore in U. S. Arrived in St.P's and behold, our guide was NOT named Svetlana--1st time that has happened--her name is Natala. We went directly from the airport to Peterhof (no not that Peter Hoff--Peter the Great's summer residence on the Finland Sea). It is bigger than Versailles and absolutely beautiful. We spent several hours there and toured the grand palace, then to our hotel.

Our hotel is centrally located right across from the train station (where we take an overnight to Moscow) and at the head of Nevesky Prospect Street which is one of the main streets in town.
Bill Halteman, myself, Andrei and Wayne Reid went out to dinner and walked the street. We are far north and it is bright and sunny until about 10 PM, then like dusk, then sun up again at 2 AM.

Ms. Caitlin Conroy has been our ambassador of gifts on this trip. She has, on behalf of the entire group, given gifts to various officials and speakers--and often on the fly, with little notice and she has done a great job--we have kidded her that she has a bright future in public relations.

Tomorrow is culture day--Hermitage, Fortress of Peter and Paul and folk show in the evening--our final day in Russia as we take, as noted, an overnight train to Moscow then to airport and off to home. I hope you go to the photo site and see the photos that are added.

Monday, May 17, 2010

More From the Russian Contingent

16 May 2010

Went to YB this day—it is a very old town approximately 90 minutes from Syktyvkar on the Sissalya River (probably did not spell this correctly). I hope you like the videos that I have uploaded—they take forever. I will miss this good internet connection.

We bounced and heaved our way to Yb on a bus that I swear had no springs and never saw any suspension whatsoever. The Village is much like it was a long time ago and we were able to see how true country folk live—most families were in the process of planting potatoes (perfect time to start them in this area of the world). The day was overcast and we had rain on and off and no one complained, I think we were all glad to have less heat and humidity than we have been enduring thus far.

We went to a church in the village and the women with us had to wear a scarf or hat on their heads as services were in progress. It was Eastern Orthodox services with a lot of singing and chanting—for those of you who do not know, there are no benches or pews—you stand for the entire service. The singing from a small, old and spirited choir was quite lovely. We then went from there for a short walk to see more of the village up close and the river. We then went to a cloistered convent and a nun gave us a tour.

From there we went to a local home and had lunch---cold fish or hot potato soup, wonderful stuffed breads, sliced beets and carrots, kavas (a local liquor), water, juice and fresh milk from the cows. Afterwards our hosts took us out to play games that were popular in the village and some took a crack at chopping wood, sawing, and carrying water.

Headed home after a long day outside and I think all appreciated the time at the village and the time outside. Students dispersed for an evening with their hosts.
During this visit I had the honor of having dinner at two different homes—and what a celebration that is—people laughing, telling stories, sharing all sorts of food—an absolute delightful time. The amount of “space” families live in would be shocking by U. S. standards but their joy in entertaining is certainly equal to any found in Maine.

17 May 2010

Up early today to visit a new business incubator. Very unusual setup—they offer both programs for young entrepreneurs and incubator sites for new start ups in a remodeled building. Today was our day to climb stairs, as every office we visited was on or near the absolute top floor. We did get to meet with new startups in printing and in sheet metal operations—some were disappointed that we did not get to visit the modeling agency as well.

From the incubator we went to what was and will soon become again the largest paper mill in Europe and in Russia—Mondi. It is on land bigger than our campus and has just made a huge investment in upgrades (the largest in Russia in 45 years).
They truly rolled out the red carpet for us and had many senior officials address us and offered us lunch in the executive dining room. They were VERY surprised to hear that we had a facility on our campus—that was quite impressive to them. We then got a tour of the facility (no pictures allow) from a gentleman who spoke perfect English.

After the tour we returned to campus, tired, but there for one final lecture on Small Businesses. The group did well despite the length of the day and all our tiredness.
We dispersed once again—final night in Syktyvkar before an 8:20 flight tomorrow to St. Petersburg. I have tried to load up more videos without success—I cannot tell if it is the web site or the connection here—will try again from St. P and/or England.

Saturday, May 15, 2010

12 May 2010 – 13 May 2010

More update here. Today was our international entrepreneurship day. Our first challenge was navigating Moscow and we used the Metro System, which is huge and very efficient and quick. We had no problems navigating the Metro, which is truly breathtaking in its beauty and size (see photos). However when we got out at the correct station and went looking for the Swissotel—one of the newest and biggest in all of Moscow. We asked a policeman standing on the corner and he gave us directions—the wrong directions so we walked about 15-20 minutes in the absolute wrong direction. We then stopped and asked directions again from a well-dressed man and he whipped out his phone, used Google maps and gave us partial direction. We got back to the Metro station and went searching for the hotel-so we decided to call the hotel for directions—the 1st thing they asked us was what street we were on—we asked several people for the name of the street and none of them knew it. In addition, the hotel people could not give us directions to their own hotel. We finally pulled out a guide to Moscow and used that to navigate to the hotel. LESSON: People in Moscow do not where they are and they cannot help you find a place or give you directions from one point to another.

We arrived at the Swissotel where Shawn McKenna a stalwart member of our Advisory Board had arranged everything—everything—he had food (students always love food) and an absolutely first rate program as I have noted earlier and paid for the use of the facility—then we went to one of Shawn’s restaurants for lunch—and all of the speakers came as well—these are men and women who are VERY successful and gave of their time and talents freely to our group (there are photos of the event, of lunch and of the entire group outside of the restaurant). The nicest thing was an email I received form Shawn McKenna where he said “What a delightful group of students, and so glad they asked and asked and asked questions. They really found a groove. I enjoyed myself as did other speakers.”

The students at night go off on their own to explore Moscow and we have a hard and fast rule that they travel at all times in a group and they have followed that to a “T.” It is always of interest to watch their reactions to the foods, smells, and culture of Moscow and Russia.

The more mature folks, Andrei, I and Bill Halteman (of our math department) went out around 8 PM and went over to a famous street closed to traffic (Arbat St) we had coffee, noted the passing scene and went home. It is a gift to have Bill with us as his knowledge of Russian is quite good and valuable.


13 May 2010

Up and out this morning—it is the day we go to Tretyakov Gallery and then on to the train station for our 26-hour trip to Syktyvkar. I know it is getting old, but it is hot hot hot hot and it is soooooo very different from last year that it is simply amazing.

We went to the gallery and passed by trees of locks (there are photos on line of this). When a young man and woman decide to get engaged, they go to this bridge and put a lock on their key, which symbolizes their enduring love for one another—and then they throw the key into the river. It is a highly symbolic and visible act.

The Gallery is where Svetlana works (photo of her uploaded) so she has a passion for the gallery and its works of art and that makes a big difference in being in a museum. It has a wonderful collection of art—18th to 19th Century and it was a highlight for us.

We then made our way to the train station and went through some of the more beautiful metro stations (photos up loaded) and got our luggage and boarded our train—the sleeper cars are fine, a bit “tight” but adequate—but again, it is sooooooo hot. Our car is about 5 or 6 cars away from the restaurant car. The other travel conditions are very different than ours. Imagine walking through a train car where the berths are on either side and basically open areas—and when you walk down the aisle you have feet in your face (another unique Russian experience).

The students are anticipating arriving in Syktyvkar and meeting their host families and finally meeting those they have been talking with via email. I am sure, though none will admit it, that there is some nervousness over this meeting. It always works out well, but there is probably some level of concern.

It is about 1140 PM, we have been travelling for more than 9 hours. I am in the restaurant car and I have always found the click clack of the rails and the swaying of the cars soothing. About half the group is here as well—many took a long long nap as there is nothing to do but look out the window and see the scenery (which I find beautiful and ever changing). Every so often we stop at an intermediate station for 10 – 15 minutes and one gets to see the life in the smaller towns of Russia. Although there are easily more than 500 people on the train, very few Russians use the one restaurant car (which only seats 25 people)—we see very few native Russians in this car (see photos of students on train)

Well that is it for today; I assume that the group going to London has started its journey. More to come from the Russian travelling group.

14 May 2010

Continuing our train journey across Russia—we do have the opportunity to see a Russia not many see when they fly to major cities. We pass numerous small villages and dachas (essentially small vacation homes for the wealthy who escape the cities on weekends). We finally arrive in Syktyvkar at approximately 4 PM. Chaos on the platform as our hosts rush to greet us (see photos) and take our students to their homes. It is an amazing time—absolute pandemonium and then the hosts and students are gone and it is eerily quiet and Andrei and I and our interpreter Natasha are the only ones left. We departed for our hotel—the hotel Avalon which is a great step up from our lodgings in Moscow. Early dinner and to bed.

15 May 2010

Today is our intellectual day at Syktyvkar and we hear from the head of the international business department and he speaks on the size of the University and student population and the like. We then hear about the history of the Komi Republic which is very informative (at the same time I am speaking to the faculty and Russian students on Entrepreneurship and Financial Regulations in the U. S.).
We then here from a German manager who was involved with a failed adventure in Russia. It is soooooo unique to hear about a failed adventure—so few ever want to talk about failures and that is what makes this presentation special. We then have lunch in the student cafeteria and have a final lecture by an official from the largest bank in Russia on the topic of lending to small businesses. A very full day and chock full of information.

At 5 PM (see both photos and videos) we go to the Komi Folklore Center for a reception for our host families. The people here seek to preserve the Komi Culture and they are passionate about it and it is catching to all who hear. We were able to hear Komi songs so old, no one know their meaning and more recent (50 years ago) songs. The folks at the Center lead us in a variety of activities that Komi families use to introduce one another and to just have plan fun (again, see the videos). Even the Russian Hosts are not familiar with the Komi Culture and language so it was a treat for them as well. After much dancing, singing and laughing we had a snack and called an end to the evening.

I personally like the visit to Syktyvkar for a variety of reasons. The city is not as overwhelming as Moscow, the students have the opportunity to stay with young Russian students and immerse themselves in the culture and familial life of small town Russian life (although Syktyvkar is not a small city by U. S. Standards), and the pace of life is just different. We are far north and the sun does not set until about 10 PM so there is a lot of light in the city.

Tomorrow we go to the city of Ub, an interesting ride to a city back in time. More to come from Russia.

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

May 12--Wednesday

Heat continues unabated. Today we were hosted by Shawn McKenna a member of the MBS Board of Advisors.

He hosted us at the Swiss Hotel in Moscow and arranged for a absolutely superb set of speakers representing different areas gender and age of international entrepreneurs--restaurant, real estate, pharmaceutical and real estate businesses--Shawn from our board on restaurants, Levan a close friend of Shawn's who is from Turkey and in international construction (literally everywhere), Mike, a great guy who came to Russia in 1993 on a one way ticket and has been here ever since then and has worked in pharmaceutical and real estate, and Zhensa, a young woman in the travel and tourism industry. We spend the morning together in conversation.

All the men noted that they did not speak fluent Russian at all (but they understood a great deal) and this was of interest because all of them are quite successful in their areas of business (the young woman was from Russia but had lived in England, Switzerland, France and the U. S.).

Then Shawn took the entire group to one of his restaurants for a terrific lunch after the presentations. My guess is that folks are going to go back to hotel and rest--and the younger folks will probably go out.

Tomorrow we visit a famous Moscow art museum (Tretyakov Gallery) and then to our afternoon train to Syktyvkar (26+ hours in an overnight sleeper berths). All are well, again, the heat is wearing and blisters form walking in dress shoes have taken their toll.

J